Deep Heels

SETUP

The following settings and measurements are the same for ALL samples below:

  • 72 cylinder - 12 stitches left in work.

  • Gauge: 8 sts/in & 11 rows/in

  • Same yarn (Opal 4-ply) and machine settings for all heels.

  • Circumference of sock tube 9". (72 stitches ÷ 8 sts/in = 9 in)

  • Heel spring was used for heels only. The heel spring makes for a tighter gauge when it is in use. This can also affect the diagonal measurements around the heel as the heel and the top instep will have a different gauge. All of that has been taken into account for the calculations and samples below.

  • Round heel (Same as round toes. Raise and lower one double set of needles at the heel "corner")

  • Heel Diagonal Circumference (measured from the instep to the tip of the heel.) Note the line of blue yarn to indicate that measurement.

The Samples

NOTE: the number of needles needed to raise, in order to get similar measurements changes with different tension settings/gauge.

Sock A

  • 12 stitches raised and lowered for a standard heel.

  • Heel Diagonal Circumference measures 10.37"

Sock B

  • 14 stitches raised and lowered (+2 needles each side for a deep heel)

  • Heel Diagonal Circumference measures 10.67"

Sock C

  • 16 stitches raised and lowered (+4 needles each side for a deep heel)

  • Heel Diagonal Circumference measures 10.97"

Sock D

  • 18 stitches raised and lowered (+6 needles each side for a deep heel)

  • Heel Diagonal Circumference measures 11.27"

  • This specific cylinder and gauge setting would be for a 10" length foot.

  • 10% negative ease would require a 9" circumference sock.

  • The heel diagonal for this foot should be 30-40% of the foot length. Using 35% (10 × 35% = 3.5")

  • 10" + 3.5" = 13.5" heel diagonal.

  • Ideally one would want 10% negative ease for the heel diagonal: 13.5 × 10% = 1.35"

  • Therefore...13.5 - 1.35 = 12.15"

  • The IDEAL diagonal measurement circumference should be 12.15". Even with a +6 needle, very deep heel, the instep is still not deep enough for a 10" foot.

The Math

Conclusion

A 72 cylinder is usually appropriate for a 10" foot. Gauge is calculated using 10% negative ease and +4 needles for a deep heel. Using this formula and +4 deep heel will produce a sock with 19% negative ease along the diagonal. Therefore, the diagonal of a heel can withstand approximately 20% negative ease for most people. It’s important to consider that people with very deep heel/diagonal or thick/swollen ankles, this could be problematic and result in a sock that it too tight across the heel diagonal.

As sock makers, we should consider making much deeper heels then the old manuals suggest.

Note: the deeper heels are longer than regular heels. The foot length needs to be shortened accordingly when adding more needles for a deeper heel. (Reduce 2 foot rows for every 1 side needle added to a deep heel.)